Let me introduce you to the Goma Fire Ritual of the En no Gyoja-yama, held during the Ato Matsuri of the Gion Matsuri festival, one of Japan’s most iconic summer festivals.
At the En no Gyoja-yama, which parades during the Ato Matsuri of the Gion Matsuri, a Yamabushi Questioning Ritual and Goma Fire Ritual are conducted in front of the En no Gyoja-yama on July 23rd, before the main parade, in honor of En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo.
A Goma Fire Ritual held on the streets of Kyoto is unique to the Gion Matsuri, making it a truly special event.
Gion Matsuri Goma Fire Ritual of En no Gyoja-yama
Ennogyoja-cho, located near Karasuma Oike in Kyoto, is a district known for its association with the En no Gyoja-yama of the Gion Matsuri. Facing Muromachi Street, a mecca for traditional Japanese clothing, the area is bustling with spectators during the festival.
En no Gyoja-yama, one of the ten floats parading during the Ato Matsuri, has deep ties to Shugendo. As part of this connection, a Goma Fire Ritual conducted by the Yamabushi of the Shogoin of the Honzan Shugendo takes place on Muromachi Street every year.
Goma Fire Ritual of the En no Gyoja-yama
Goma Fire is a ritual to ward off evil spirits and is one of the most sacred events of the Gion Matsuri. This ceremony is held in front of En no Gyoja-yama on July 23rd, led by the Yamabushi of Shogoin.
The Goma Fire Ritual of En no Gyoja-yama starts at 2 PM on the evening before the Ato Matsuri. During the burning, the section of Muromachi Street between Sanjo and Anekoji Streets is closed to traffic.
This is the scene before the Goma Burning begins. The Goma platform is already prepared, awaiting the arrival of the Yamabushi. The chairs in the foreground are reserved for En no Gyoja-yama stakeholders and residents of Ennogyoja-cho.
The Goma Burning begins with the Yamabushi Questioning Ritual, followed by the ritual purification of the four directions, the purification of the Goma platform, and finally, the Goma Burning itself.
Goma Fire Ritual: Yamabushi Questioning Ritual
At 2 PM, the sound of the horagai (conch shell) echoes in the distance, signaling the start of the Goma Fire Ritual.
Starting from Rokkakudo, the Yamabushi visit several floats related to Shugendo, including Yamabushi-yama, Jomyo-yama, Arare Tenjin-yama, Minami Kannon-yama, Kita Kannon-yama, and Hachiman-yama, before finally arriving at En no Gyoja-yama for the Goma Fire Ritual.
To enter the sacred boundary, the Yamabushi perform a Q&A session to prove their status.
The questions cover their lineage, the founder and teachings of Shugendo, and details about the Yamabushi’s tools and attire. Once their status is confirmed, they are allowed to enter the sacred boundary.
Yamabushi Goma Fire Ritual
Once inside the boundary, the Yamabushi begin the purification of the four directions by shooting arrows. This is followed by the purification of the Goma fire platform with an axe and sword, and then lighting the Goma fire platform while chanting prayers.
As the Yamabushi chant the Heart Sutra and blow the horagai, Goma sticks are added to the fire.
Depending on the wind direction, smoke may drift towards the spectators, sometimes engulfing them. It’s something that must be endured.
This year’s Goma Fire Ritual was blessed with good weather and concluded in about an hour. Finally, the fire was extinguished and cleaned up.
The paper amulets and cypress branches used in the ritual are said to ward off evil when displayed at home. Be sure to take some home after the ceremony.
There’s also a video of the Goma Fire Ritual, so feel free to watch it.
Exploring En no Gyoja-yama at the Gion Matsuri
En no Gyoja-yama is located at Anekoji Muromachi and has existed since before the Onin War. It is a kakiyama (shoulder-carried float).
The floats of the Gion Matsuri are categorized into hoko, yama, kakiyama, and kasahoko. While hoko and yama have wheels and are pulled, kakiyama are carried on shoulders.
En no Gyoja-yama Legend and History
En no Gyoja-yama enshrines En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo. The name En no Gyoja-yama comes from the legend of En no Gyoja collaborating with Hitokotonushi-no-Kami and Katsuragi-no-Kami to build a bridge between Mt. Katsuragi and Mt. Omine.
En no Gyoja is said to have trained at Mt. Katsuragi and Mt. Omine, and this legend is reflected in the name En no Gyoja-yama.
The areas around Mt. Koya and Mt. Omine are significant to Shugendo and En no Gyoja, and Kukai (Kobo Daishi), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, also established a dojo at Mt. Koya.
En no Gyoja-yama Sacred Objects
En no Gyoja-yama enshrines En no Gyoja, Hitokotonushi-no-Kami, and Katsuragi-no-Kami.
On the day of the float parade, the sacred object En no Gyoja sits in the shrine holding a sutra and staff, flanked by Hitokotonushi-no-Kami and Katsuragi-no-Kami.
The En no Gyoja-yama Preservation Society displays the float’s decorations, alongside the sacred stone and well related to the legend of En no Gyoja.
About 1300 years ago, En no Gyoja is said to have climbed here using the well and sat on this stone for spiritual training.
En no Gyoja-yama Decorations
The float’s water draw is adorned with Nishiyama Kanshichi’s “Karako Asobi Zu” and “Moegi-ji Ryumon Zu,” while the body is decorated with a dragon pattern. The rear curtain features the “Korean Military Flag” brought by Taichu Shonin.
These decorations tell the history and culture of En no Gyoja-yama, and the dragon wave pattern decorations are particularly noteworthy.
En no Gyoja-yama Access and Information
The nearest station to En no Gyoja-yama is Karasuma Oike Station on the Kyoto City Subway Karasuma Line and Tozai Line, just a 3-minute walk away.
For those coming by bus, the Karasuma Oike bus stop is convenient.
En no Gyoja-yama Goma Fire Ritual Schedule
The Goma Fire Ritual of En no Gyoja-yama is held on July 23rd at 2 PM during the Ato Matsuri.
Previously, all floats paraded on the same day, but since 2014, the festival schedule was changed to revive the Ato Matsuri after 49 years.
As a result, En no Gyoja-yama appears during the Ato Matsuri from July 21st to 24th, with the float parade on the 24th and the Goma Fire Ritual on the 23rd.
En no Gyoja-yama Information
| Name | En no Gyoja-yama |
|---|---|
| Address | 358 Ennogyoja-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-8174 |
| Sacred Objects | En no Gyoja, Hitokotonushi-no-Kami, Katsuragi-no-Kami |
| Goma Fire Ritual Schedule | July 23rd at 2 PM during the Ato Matsuri |
| Fee | Free (Open for Viewing) |
| Access | 3-minute walk from Karasuma Oike Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway 3-minute walk from Karasuma Oike Bus Stop served by Kyoto City Bus and Kyoto Bus |
Below are articles related to the Gion Matsuri, highlighting the Yoiyama and float parade attractions.
Japanese Article : 祇園祭後祭 役行者山の護摩焚き
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