Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri: Yoiyama

The iconic Gion Matsuri, a hallmark of Kyoto’s summer, is about to begin.

In 2014, for the first time in 49 years, the Gion Matsuri will feature both the Saki Matsuri (First Half of Gion Festival) and Atomatsuri (Second Half of Gion Festival), with two Yoiyama (festival eve) and Yamahoko Junko.

Following the revival of the Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri, another significant event is the return of the Ofune-hoko float, which will participate in the procession for the first time in 150 years.

Gion Matsuri 2014: The Revival of Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri, and the Return of Ofune-hoko

The Gion Matsuri is one of Japan’s three major festivals, attracting many visitors to Kyoto each year, including tourists from outside the prefecture.

In 2014, significant changes were made to the Gion Matsuri, with the revival of Saki Matsuri (pre-festival) and Ato Matsuri (post-festival) for the first time in 49 years.

As a result, Saki Matsuri will take place from July 14 to 17, and Ato Matsuri from July 21 to 24, with two occurrences of Yoi-yama (festival eve) and Yamahoko Junko.

While the main events of the Gion Matsuri are Yoi-yama and Yamahoko Junko, the festival actually spans a month, from the opening ceremonies on July 1 to the closing ceremonies on July 31. Throughout this month, various events take place, including the main attractions of Yoi-yama and Yamahoko Junko.

In the 2014 Gion Matsuri, another major event following the revival of Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri is the return of the Ofune-hoko, which will participate in the procession for the first time in 150 years.

During Saki Matsuri, 23 floats including “Naginata-hoko” will parade on July 17, and during Ato Matsuri, 10 floats including “Ofune-hoko” will parade on July 24. The Saki Matsuri follows the traditional route starting from Shijo-Karasuma, proceeding to Shijo-Kawaramachi, Kawaramachi-Oike, and ending at Shinmachi-Oike. The Ato Matsuri will follow the same route in reverse.

Gion Matsuri 2014 Saki Matsuri Yoi-yama First Day

I took this photo near Shinmachi Shijo around 7 pm on the first day of Yoi-yama. Despite the cars passing by, which made me think I got the time wrong, there were no traffic restrictions on July 14, the first day of Yoi-yama.

In fact, I didn’t know about the changes to the Gion Matsuri schedule and content until the day of the event.

How has the Gion Matsuri changed in 2014? During the festival, friends set up stalls and sell Chimaki (decorative rice straw wreaths), so I took a stroll on the first day of Yoi-yama to see the atmosphere.

Muromachi Nishiki Koji is a busy area with many Yamahoko, bustling with people just like any other Yoi-yama.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Kikusui-Hoko

Kikusuibo, located at Shijo-Muromachi, is named after the Kikusui well, an ancient well in the neighborhood. The well is said to have been within the residence of Takeno Joou, the mentor of tea master Sen no Rikyu during the late Muromachi period.

The magnificent Kikusui-Hoko was burned down during the late Edo period but was restored in 1952 after 88 years thanks to the efforts of Mr. Matsumoto. Given its grandeur, the restoration must have been challenging.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Kanko-Hoko

Kanko-Hoko, located on the east side of Shijo-Muromachi, is named after the ancient story of Meng Changjun, a Chinese statesman during the Warring States period, who escaped from the Hangu Pass by the crowing of roosters.

Meng Changjun was a statesman who served as prime minister for Qi, Wei, and Qin, governing his states with benevolence and righteousness, and was known for hosting thousands of retainers.

Invited by King Zhao of Qin, Meng Changjun was ensnared by plots and sought to escape from Hangu Pass. However, the pass gates only opened at the crowing of roosters. One of his retainers mimicked the crowing, prompting real roosters to crow, and the gates opened, allowing their escape. This story gave rise to the term “Keimei-Kutou” (鶏鳴狗盗, the trick of making a rooster crow).

The moon on the top of Kanko-Hoko represents the crescent moon over the ridges of Hangu Pass. Each part of the Yamahoko has its own symbolic meaning.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Niwatori-Hoko

Niwatori-Hoko, located at Shinmachi-Ayanokouji, is named after the ancient story of Emperor Yao’s era when peace was so prevalent that the drum of litigation grew moss and roosters nested on it, symbolizing peace.

The float head, taller than the adjacent buildings, has a golden circle symbolizing a rooster’s egg at its peak.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Ayakasa-Hoko

Ayakasa Hoko is located in Muromachi Ayakoji. Among the Hoko (floats) of the Gion Matsuri, it is one of the oldest, dating back to before the Onin War, and it features a unique umbrella-like structure called a Kasa hoko.

Most of Ayakasa-Hoko was destroyed in the great fire of 1864. For a time, it participated in the festival as a walking float without its hoko. However, it disappeared from the Gion Matsuri after 1884.

Thanks to the efforts of the townspeople of Zenchouji-machi, Ayakasa-Hoko was revived and reappeared in the Gion Matsuri in 1979.

The pole-throwing performance is iconic of Ayakasa-Hoko. Dancers wearing red wigs called “Shakkuma” perform pole-throwing. Around them, pairs of drummers perform with shime-daiko (small hand-held drums), with one holding the drum and the other striking it while dancing.

During the Yamahoko Junko (procession of floats), two Kasa-hoko participate, and the pole-throwing performance is showcased. Unlike other floats, Ayakasa-Hoko does not have extravagant decorations, but it is said to represent the traditional entertainment and music of the ancient Gion Matsuri.

Indeed, the main attraction of Ayakasa-Hoko is the pole-throwing performance.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Funahoko

Funahoko, located at Shinmachi-Ayanokouji, is the only float shaped like a ship in the Gion Matsuri. This year, however, Ofune-hoko also returns, making it two ship-shaped floats.

The Funahoko represents Empress Jingu’s legendary departure to Silla, while the Ofune-hoko symbolizes her triumphant return, originally making them a pair.

Empress Jingu, despite being pregnant, led a campaign against the Korean Peninsula after her husband, Emperor Chuai, suddenly died. She concealed his death, disguised as a man, and crossed the Genkai Sea to attack Silla, which surrendered without a fight.

This event, known as the “Three Korean Campaigns,” is still celebrated in festivals across Japan.

After returning from the campaign, Empress Jingu gave birth, earning her reverence as a deity of safe childbirth. During the procession, the float carries many prayer sashes from pregnant women, which are later given to them as protective charms.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri Iwatoyama

Iwatoyama, located at Shinmachi-Bukkoji, is based on the myth of Amaterasu emerging from the cave, as told in the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.

Though named “Iwatoyama” (mountain), its appearance resembles a float with wheels. Iwatoyama houses the deities Amaterasu and Tajikarao. At its peak sits Izanagi-no-Mikoto, the father figure in the myth.

At the Iwatoyama base, Miokuri (decorations of float curtains, banners) were on display. One of them is the “Nichigetsuryu Hyakunin Karakoyuumon Tsuzure Nishiki,” restored in 1986 by Kawashima Textile.

Additionally, there is the “Venice Scene,” created in 1979 by textile artist Taizo Minagawa.

Iwatoyama was bustling with visitors late into the night.

Gion Matsuri Saki Matsuri, Shinmachi street at night

This is the area around Shinmachi Nishikikoji at night.

This is where Minami Kannonyama is located, and further ahead are Kita Kannonyama and Hachimanyama. During the Gion Matsuri period in the past, this area was always crowded with people, even at night.

However, this year, the Gion Matsuri schedule has been changed, so it is quieter than before.

Gion Matsuri has been divided into two parts since 2014. What will happen to the Gion Matsuri’s second half of Gion Festival (Atomatsuri)?

Japanese Article : 祇園祭 前祭宵山の様子2014